November 24, 2022

Sewing a coat: the fabrics you need

Every month the team of the Torretto Tessuti fabric house works together to present you with some tips from textile professionals. 

Today, we accompany you in the choice of the adequate fabrics for a particular sewing project... That to create the flagship piece of a winter dressing room: The coat! 

HOW TO CHOOSE A FABRIC TO SEW A COAT ?

How to recognize a quality woollen fabric ? Which material should I choose ? How do you know if a woolen fabric is warm and insulating enough to make a coat? Find all this information in this new article.

It would be too easy to believe that you can tell the quality of a fabric by its feel. Some coat weight Some are soft, others rough, but this does not indicate quality. First of all, to recognize a quality woollen fabric, we must study its density and rigidity. Its texture must be tight. To reveal this, let's ask ourselves about the weight and composition of the fabric: 

Fabric weight

Our sewing tip number 1: Always focus on the weight of the article. On your online fabric store, find heavy and good quality coat weight fabrics from 350 gr / m2. But how to choose the right Weight for your fabrics? 

Depending on the utility and the aesthetic choice thought for your realizations, it is necessary to choose more or less heavy fabrics. Here are some examples: 

  • The York wool at Weight of 350 gr / m2 is ideal for sewing light winter jackets with a bathrobe or suit cut.
  • With a weight of 415 gr / m2 the Carisma fabric offers a warm, soft and comfortable alternative for a winter poncho.
  • The weight of 490 gr / m2 of the Ambassad fabric makes it a perfect intermediate for the sewing of numerous realizations like capes or winter coats type raglan, ball, princess, etc.
  • The weight of 540 gr / m2 for the Calore fabric gives it an exceptional density for the realization of the warmest and most compact pieces. You can sew coats or long straight coats for example.

      Composition 

      Another important point: The composition. When we talk about sewing a coat, we inevitably think of wool. But what we call "wool" includes all fabrics warp and weft containing wool or resembling wool.

      There are 3 main categories of woollens, depending on their composition:

      • Pure wool fabrics,
      • Mixed wools (with cotton, silk, viscose or synthetic fibers such as polyester),
      • Synthetic fabrics that have all the outward appearance of wool but do not contain wool.

      When sewing a winter coat, the ideal fabric is pure wool. Wool is insulating even in the rain, breathable and comfortable (its elastic properties make it easy to adjust). If you want to learn more about its properties, check out our previous blog post.

      But if you look closely at the composition of most coat fabrics, you'll see that wool is often mixed with other fibers:

      • The cotton makes the wool softer and more resistant, 
      • Polyamide brings strength and elasticity to the wool, 
      • Polyester makes the wool more resistant and less expensive,
      • L'Acrylic brings puffiness and softness to the wool. 

      If you choose a wool blend, you can choose between natural or synthetic fibers.

      Let's not forget that the addition of synthetics can improve the compatibility of fabrics to your sewing projects and make them more affordable. It is also a significant advantage in terms ofCare and the life span of your future garments.

      Also know that in addition to woollens, it is possible to sew trendy coats in 100% cotton using ribbed velvet, for example.

      HOW TO MAKE YOUR COAT LAST THROUGH THE YEARS?

      Another tip for sewing a long-lasting coat is to line it with a durable fabric that is thicker than a regular lining.

      New customers frequently come to us looking for the perfect fabric for their coat repair. It's true! The process ofCare of a coat often involves replacing a lining that has not held its weight.

      To avoid changing your lining every year, la Maison Torretto Tessuti offers you a thick, beautifully madesatin stretch, which will extend the life of your creations.

      Last but not least: Dare, make a canvas, test, try... To do this, do not hesitate to order samples. Select 1 unit, or 10 cm, of the fabrics of your choice on en.tessuti.fr before launching your project.

      The choice of fabrics is crucial for the rendering of your coat projects. You can ask us. Tweed, synthetic fur, 100% wool... are all fabrics that will give a totally unique look to your coats! What is certain is that once this sewing project is completed, you can be proud of it and see it through many winters.