January 24, 2022

Tweed, Iconic and historical

Fabric of legend... How, from the distant lands of Scotland Scottish lands to the greatest fashion runways, has this iconic fabric evolved?

What is tweed?

Historical Tweed

Tweed is originally a carded wool fabric made in Scotland.

This easy to sew fabric easily hides stitches with its rough surface. Tweed is adurable, heat-retaining material.Its tight weave, with multi-layered yarns, is made from the wool of a small sheep: the cheviot.

At the time, Tweed (very inspired by landscapes and nature) was named after its geographical origin, the manufacturer or the function of the fabric. This was the advent of iconic houses such as Harris, Donegal and Sanoxy.

Contemporary Tweed

At the beginning of the 20th century, tweed diversified and arrived in town. Coco Chanel works with a looser weave. Tweed Natté, used for her suit jackets, became one of the most emblematic fabrics of fashion.

Tweed is revisited, reinterpreted, reinvented... Synthetic materials give it other aesthetic, durable or comfortable attractions: This fabric, which has become mythical, now has infinite variations.

Tweed, how to recognize it?

Tweed fabric is full of surprises! It comes in a variety of patterns, each as iconic as the next: Prince of Wales, herringbone, herringbone check, barley grain, striped, houndstooth, check or tartan... But how can such a variety of Tweed patterns be woven?

Historical Tweed

Tweed is historically a plain or twill weave fabric. Plain weave is the simplest weave. It makes the Tweed fabric a flat surface, without relief, flexible and reversible. With this weave,the fabric is strong, firm and especially suitable for cold and wet climates.

With the twill weave, Tweed is distinguished by a diagonal line. This "drop" weave (which shifts one thread at a time in the direction of the warp for a slanting effect), makes the front side different from the back.Heavier, more wrinkle resistant and more durable, twill weave Tweed has other uses than plain weave Tweed .

Contemporary Tweed

The transformations of Tweed over the years make it a fabric with infinite possibilities. To mention just one variation of this weave, Tweed can be woven in a plaited weave . A derivative of the plain weave, it can be woven in regular plait (doubling the threads), irregular plait (2 threads for 3) or even fancy plait.

Thus Tweed knows as many aspects as possibilities of weaving, thickness of the threads, compositions, and thus promises to fill all the desires. Discover the entire selection of Tweed and Natté Torretto Tessuti right here.

Are you still hesitating to sew this legendary material? Need some sewing tips? Check out @idcouture_tutorials on how to sew Tweed & Natté in the "Ysée Skirt" Featured Stories.